How to Mod a Gamecube Credit to TrudelR for writing the guide Install the Xeno GC v2 Modchip 1. Remove the 4 screws at the edges on the bottom. You need either a special screwdriver, a 4mm wrench socket or - the easiest way - Burn the tip of a plastic pen with a lighter. When it has melted, press it on the screw and wait around 1 minute until it has hardened up. If you don't understand, have a look in the "Laser Tweak" - Section or have a look at this video: 2. If you have unscrewed it open it up. You now have to unscrew the drive unit. It is fixed on an iron sheet. To unscrew the unit, you have to unscrew the whole iron sheet first and after you can unscrew the connection screw between the iron sheet and the drive unit. The modchip will be fixed at the bottomside of the drive unit: 3. Now solder the modchip on the board. You have to solder at the red lines which you see in the picture on the right side (6 dots). The dots have to be on their own! Don't connect them! Otherwise it won't work. 4. Build all parts back together except the case. You can now connect it to the power supply. 5. Start your Gamecube. There are 2 LED's on the modchip (marked yellow). You have to look at them when you start your Cube. When you press power it should light up red first and after 1-2 seconds it should light green (maybe in some cases orange). If you see that, the modification was successful. Laser Tweak NOTE: You can break your Gamecube with this if something goes wrong, so please do this step carefully and with much patience! Lasercleaning (lens) Before you start the tweak, it's sometimes helpful to clean the laser with a Q-tip. Use "Isopropylalcohol" (industry alcohol, can be found in much maufactures) or "Pure Alcohol" (from the drugstore) with a minimum of 96% Alcohol! This is really important. And DON'T use anything other stuff like spirit! It mustn't have denaturant in it! Don't try the lens after cleanin, the alcohol will evaporate by itself. If this step won't help, do the tweak... Tweak Adjusting the potentiometer on your Gamecube drive can be tedious work if your not used to doing minor electronic adjustments/mods/repairs, first thing to keep in mind is that adjusting the POT meter will not solve every DRE (disk read error) you’re having, so first thing to do is testing the POT meter to determine how many OHMs are set to the drive. Now, before we get to the reading of OHMS here on your Gamecube drive, let’s take a minute to round up a few supplies to do this. 1. A multimeter (analogue or digital) 2. A phillips head screw driver (or something similar) 3. A micro phillips head screw driver (used to fix glasses or small electronics) 4. Maybe Plastic pens (for opening the cube - if you haven't something better) Now that we have all our tools we are ready to open up our gamecube to get our pot readings. Open up your gamecube with the pens (you don't have to take 4... I could open and close a Cube with just 2 pens). Assuming everything went alright and you got your cube open, you now need access underneath the gamecube drive so it’s now time to keep taking that cube apart, no sense of quitting now, right? There are a total of 14 screws to mount off the DVD drive (marked red) plus 4 additional grounding ones close to the control port PCB. Before this step, remove the 2 screws of the Fan. Once the drive is unsecured you can simply just lift it off. It comes with part of the metal housing you need to also remove that. Great, now we have access to the POT meter or potentiometer, to test the setting, simply set your multimeter to 2000k OHMS and touch the red prod with left solder point of the pot meter (if you’re not sure what side you’re on, here’s a tip: the left side only has 1 solder point, the right side has 2) and on the right side, stick the black prod on the lower solder point, this should give you a reading anywhere between 150 and 700 ohms, what we are looking for is the "sweet spot" which is typically located between 170 and 220 ohms, it will take some fine tuning so be patient, every cube drive is different and one setting can work for one cube and not the other so test it accordingly. Now, when testing your console, an important thing to know is, that your GC heats up after 10mins, which in many cases causes the pot to lower by 10 OHMS or so if after 10 minutes of playing/testing you still get DRE's you need to readjust the pot. Build your cube back up after all your trouble shooting is done.